We then seperated as the current was so strong, I drifted about 1 KM from North cronulla to Wonda beach, I just couldn't get on the wave, I had a 6.5 ft board and and was without a wetsuit so i would be light and swift. I started to become a little scared when everone became out of my sight, and Its almost impossible to paddle back to the shore as the rips were so strong, but then i got a very nice wave, and as i aimed for the directon of the shore, i was hit by a nice back wash wave coming out, and got air too :)
The photo in the picture illustrates the sizes of the waves for this activity (the person in the above photo wasn't me it was very very brave surfer)
Christopher Angling
12 Jul 2011
I am still in shock, and finding it hard to get over yesterdays waves, the bigest i have seen break infront of me. I went out by myself and could only see 2 people out the back, but when the sets came in and broke infront of me, I fear'd for my life. And turned back to paddle back for the sea shore. As i sat down on the beach and watched the waves crashing down, I saw two other surfers stretching on the beach about 100 metres south, so i ran up to them and asked if i can paddle out with them. One said "If you die, its not my fault though" I agreed and we paddled for the back. They were alot faster than me and I was smashed by a set on the way out.. but i made it out the back..
The photo in the picture illustrates the sizes of the waves for this activity (the person in the above photo wasn't me it was very very brave surfer)