This beach has an AWESOME A'Break.

IT was the easter break, and I am now safe and sound. At one point i didn't know if i'd make it back as the sets came in as i was jumping off the rock face. I had thousants of thoughts in one sceond when it happened. Luckily I found there was a smal patch in the wrocks that i could tuck myself into and hold on like a crab would. 

I didn't want it to be a dissapointment to the audience who had woken so early to watch the waves roll in from the lookout. As the sets pounded the rocks infront of me, I still managed to hold on and jumped into the water to follow the white wash as it withdrew from the rocks. 

It was really good to make it out the back. 

The sets were very big, I missed a perfect opportunity for a piping barrel and was slammed by the following waves. 

True is true, At this point in life, I now i can confirm that i am not fit enough anymore to surf waves of such magnitude and I must do something about it before i burry myself with sorrow.

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Why the beer in hand?

I was raised to believe that Aclahol is only for a special ocasion such as easter etc, My body for some reason is intollerant and very sensitive to alcahol, probably why some brands cause reflux and iratation.. this easter though my brother bought a case of Stone & Wood  (first i've heard of) from all the beers i've tried, I can say its now in the top 4. Tohees Old, Carone (with lime), Mango beer and Now Stone & Wood * a craft beer from byron bay.

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